The recent Netflix reality show 'Culinary Class Wars,' which premiered in September 2024, has significantly impacted the restaurant scene in Seoul, particularly in the Namyeong-dong alley of Yongsan. This show has made history as the first Korean unscripted title to reach No. 1 globally for non-English shows, maintaining its top spot for three consecutive weeks. The competition features 80 underdog chefs, referred to as 'black spoon,' competing against 20 celebrity chefs known as 'white spoon.' This dynamic has brought a surge of interest in the culinary talents of lesser-known chefs, leading to a vibrant atmosphere in the area, which is home to four 'black spoon' chefs, including Kwon Sung-jun of Via Toledo Pasta Bar, who is known as the 'Napoli Mafia' and recently triumphed over Edward Lee in the competition.
In addition to Kwon, several other notable chefs have gained recognition through the show. Kang Seung-won, known as 'Triple Star,' operates Trid in Cheongdam-dong, while Yoon Nam-no, dubbed 'Cooking Maniac,' runs Deepin, which specializes in Japanese-French dishes. Jang Ho-joon operates Negi Dining Lounge, focusing on Japanese cuisine, and Kim Mi-ryeong, referred to as 'Auntie Omakase #1,' serves kalguksu at Andongjip Sonkalguksi. Jung Ji-sun, recognized as the 'Queen of Dim Sum,' offers unique dim sum at Tian Mimi, and Choi Hyun-seok runs Choi Dot, an Italian fine-dining restaurant. Reservations at these establishments have become increasingly challenging due to their popularity, with Via Toledo accepting bookings on the 10th and 25th of each month.
However, the success of 'Culinary Class Wars' has not come without its challenges. Contestants, particularly those labeled as 'villains,' have faced severe cyberbullying. Seonkyoung Longest, a contestant from the show, reported receiving over 8,000 hateful comments following the airing of the series. This troubling trend has drawn attention to the mental health impacts of reality television, prompting cultural critics to call for production teams to take greater responsibility for the welfare of contestants. Netflix's policies regarding contestant protection have been criticized for being vague, raising concerns about the support provided to those who participate in such high-pressure environments.
The Namyeong-dong alley, once known as American Meat Street, has transformed into a bustling culinary hub, attracting food enthusiasts and tourists alike. However, this newfound popularity has led to rising rents, sparking concerns about gentrification among long-time residents and business owners who fear being priced out of their neighborhoods. As the culinary landscape evolves, the balance between supporting new talent and preserving the community's character remains a pressing issue. The buzz generated by 'Culinary Class Wars' exemplifies the intersection of entertainment and real-world implications for local economies and cultural heritage, while also highlighting the darker aspects of reality TV culture.